Lynn Freeman travels to the Outer Hebrides off the coast of mainland Scotland. Also known as the Western Isles, it's actually an island chain that includes the Isles of Skye, Mull, Benbecula, Barra, Lewis and Harris - among others. The Isles of Lewis and Harris are in fact the northern and southern end of the same island, but they are very different in geography, gaelic language and culture.
The rivalry is intense - Harris people even resent having to be born in Lewis because that's where the hospital is based. Tourism is crucial for both, as is fishing - though these days farmed salmon is way more important than sea faring fishermen.