Lynn Freeman heads to the West Coast of the South Island, to a township that is all too often only seen as a quick stop to see the famous Pancake Rocks, blowholes, en route to bigger neighbours Greymouth or Westport.
But Punakaiki is determinedly promoting itself as a destination worthy of at least a few days of your time.
For the outdoor enthusiast there is kayaking, horse riding, petrels, tramping and hunting in the vast Paparoa National Park.
It's also one of the best places in the country to see the night sky away from city light pollution.
Video: Goat leg being prepared for marinade.
