Thomas Vialletet who died on Aoraki Mount Cook was described as a careful and diligent guide. Photo: Supplied
An internationally-recognised Wanaka-based mountain guide who died on Aoraki Mt Cook has been remembered as a careful and diligent climber.
Wānaka'sThomas Vialletet and a United States client were in a party of four, roped together in pairs, climbing from Empress Hut to the summit when the two fell from the mountain's west ridge on Monday night.
The other two climbers - a New Zealand guide and their client - were flown from the mountain early on Tuesday morning, while the bodies of Vialletet and his client were recovered at midday.
Vialletet, a married father-of-two, co-owned mountain and ski guide company Summit Explorers.
He grew up in the French Alps where he had been climbing, skiing and exploring mountains for over two decades, according to the Summit Explorers website.
"His quest for mountain adventures brought him to New Zealand and he immediately fell in love with the wilderness of this country," Vialletet's biography said.
Vialletet was a climbing instructor before becoming a fully-certified International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations mountain and ski guide.
From 2009 and 2012, he was part of the French National Young Alpinism Team.
On Tuesday police recovered the bodies of Thomas Vialletet and a climber from the United States from Aoraki Mt Cook. Photo: Unsplash / Corey Serravite
In an Instagram post on 6 November, Vialletet enthused about the start of the New Zealand climbing season.
"Just back from guiding the east ridge of Aoraki/Mt Cook...a 25hr one push from Plateau Hut!" he wrote.
"So many years spent looking at that magnificent skyline, thinking one day it will be awesome to wander that way to climb the mighty Aoraki.
"Guiding it, it's like a professional dream that came true for myself."
Police confirmed the other climber who died was from the US and said they were working with US consulate.
In a statement, the US Embassy in Wellington confirmed the death.
"Out of respect for the privacy of the family and loved ones during this difficult time, we will not be providing further comment."
New Zealand Mountain Guides Association president Anna Keeling said Vialletet, who was a member of their organisation, was "careful and diligent" and had been guiding for at least 12 years.
Keeling said he last climbed Aoraki Mt Cook just two weeks ago, via the "quite difficult" east ridge.
"He was very qualified to be up there and knew the route well and knew the conditions well this year. So it's very shocking," she said.
Keeling said the conditions on Aoraki Mt Cook at the moment were favourable because of snow in the past couple of months but that there was always some risk.
"We make our clients aware also that we are risk managers, that we cannot entirely eliminate risk, but they're willing to accept it for the opportunity for a really tremendous experience, especially on New Zealand's highest peaks," she said.
"Being up on the summit ridge of Aoraki is an incredible experience with amazing views. It's actually indescribable how amazing it is up there but that reward comes with risk."
Aoraki Mt Cook was considered a riskier mountain to guide, Keeling said.
"I have guided Aoraki a number of times. I would say it's the hardest thing we do as New Zealand guides," she said.
Keeling said it was a difficult, arduous and incredibly long climb, and also involved climbing in the dark.
"Climbing at night is typical because it typically freezes at night and we like to travel on our crampons in firm snow rather than really punchy, soft snow," she said.
Keeling said where the climbers fell was a very exposed spot with "no margin for error".
She said the New Zealand mountain guiding community was like a family and the guide's death had come as a huge blow.
Three climbers - 56-year-old guide Kurt Blair, 50-year-old Carlos Romero from the United States and an unnamed Canadian guide - died while climbing Aoraki Mt Cook in December 2024.
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